East Lothian, Scotland, golf-trip planning guide: Best places to play, stay, eat

St. Andrews is regarded as the ancient home of golf, but the roots of the game run every bit as deep in other parts of Scotland. One of those places is East Lothian, the course-rich coastal region east of Edinburgh where Simon Holt was born and raised. A lifelong golfer and travel industry veteran, Holt is well-acquainted with golf hotspots around the world, but there’s nowhere he knows better than his own backyard.

In a recent episode of the Destination GOLF podcast, which he co-hosts with GOLF senior writer Josh Sens, Holt outlined an East Lothian dream trip, replete with insider travel tips and recommendations. For your itinerary-planning convenience, here are the best golf courses in the Edinburgh/East Lothian area.

The best golf courses in Edinburgh/East Lothian area

Rates are approximate after conversion.

Muirfield ($500 for 18 holes; $760 for 36, lunch included)

The Honourable Company of Edinburgh Golfers are an honest bunch, but their organization’s name is misleading. The club isn’t based in Edinburgh. Its home is Muirfield, 16-time host of the Open Championship. Designed by Old Tom Morris in 1891, and updated by Harry Colt nearly 35 years later, Muirfield provides an unforgettable test and an overall experience to match.

A typical day involves 36 holes — a morning 18 in which you play your own ball, followed by afternoon foursomes, or alternate shot, with an epic lunch in between (jacket and tie required) that ranks among the game’s most famous meals. Muirfield is among the most exclusive clubs in Scotland, but public times are set aside on Tuesdays and Thursdays. Be advised, though. Those spots get snatched up quickly and long in advance. The club will start accepting applications from the general public for 2026 bookings on Monday, March 10, 2025. Holt expects those spots will be gobbled within hours, if not faster.

Select tour operators, including 8AM Travel, get special access to Muirfield tee times, so booking that way is another option. 

Gullane No. 1 ($330-$380)

Gullane is home to three courses, Nos. 1, 2 and 3. All are worthwhile, but if you’ve only got time for a single round, No. 1 is the one. A former host of the Scottish Open — Rickie Fowler won the event in 2015 — the course is all the golf that you can eat. It’s also a feast for the eyes, with sweeping coastal views.

Kilspindie Golf Club (£125)

Short in distance but long in character, Kilspindie is an East Lothian sleeper, a quirky charmer set hard beside the sea. Given its accessibility and proximity to the Edinburgh airport, you might be tempted to play it on the day you touch down in Scotland. But Holt recommends waiting until later in your trip, when you’re refreshed and ready to take in the pleasures of a throwback links experience. At every course you visit, Holt urges you to to spend in the clubhouse, ideally for a pint or a bite to eat. That’s particularly true at Kilspindie, where the post-round atmosphere is every bit as charming as the course, and the whiskey collection is tough to beat.

Musselburgh ($27)

St. Andrews has the Old Course. But the links at Musselburgh is listed in the Guinness Book of World Records as the oldest golf course in the world, with origins that date to 1672. True to its vintage, the course abounds in the kind of rustic features that make old-school links golf so appealing. It’s a 9-holer. Given the quality and bargain price, you’ll be tempted to loop it twice.

North Berwick ($360)

Holt is a member of the club so he’s biased. But he’s far from alone in loving North Berwick. Once under-the-radar, the course in recent decades has gained in global recognization while surging toward the upper reaches of Top 100 lists. Holt describes the layout as a “living museum of golf course architect,” with iconic template holes and a famously idiosyncratic par 4 named “The Pit” with an ancient stone wall angled between the fairway and the green. Another winning feature, unrelated to course design: the first tee at North Berwick lies a few hundred yards from the train station. If you’re staying in Edinburgh, you can ride the rails and be at the course in a little more than 30 minutes.

Where to stay in the Edinburgh/East Lothian area

One of the many pleasures of an East Lothian golf trip is that there’s no need to move around.

With a constellation of courses clustered within easy striking distance, you can unpack your bags in the lodging of your choice and light out each day on surgical strikes. Holt recommends the town of North Berwick as a home base for many reasons, including its easy access to the train (see above). Great food and accommodations are also plentiful, and fit for a range of budgets.

On the higher-end hotel front, Holt says it’s hard to top the Marine Hotel, which sits astride the 16th hole of North Berwick, a five- to 10-minute walk from town. Other options in town, slightly easier on the wallet, include Nether Abbey and Number 12. 

Where to eat in the Edinburgh/East Lothian area

In North Berwick, top choices include Osteria; the Rocketeer (a great spot along the water for fresh seafood); the Herringbone (a wine bar with first-rate food) and the Auld Hoose, a traditional pub. 

In Gullane, Holt is a big fan of the Bonnie Badger (modern Scottish cuisine); the Main Course, a casual-chic Italian restaurant; and the Old Course, which serves spot-on pub grub.

To hear more about East Lothian and its golf and non-golf points of interest, you can listen to the entire podcast episode on the region above. Listen and subscribe to Destination Golf wherever you get your podcasts:  APPLE | SPOTIFY | IHEART | AMAZON