Birdies and bison: North Dakota golf is affordable, accessible and sneaky good

Suddenly, as I rolled over a rise in the road, the peaceful and pastoral plains turned to chaos. And, just like I do with a slippery 3-footer for par, I panicked. A herd of 60 bellowing buffalo, just fifty feet away, were marching straight toward me in the middle of the road. I slammed on the brakes. (A small rental car vs. numerous 2,000-pound foaming-at-the-mouth beasts is not a fair fight.) What to do? Options were limited.

Ah, yes, North Dakota. There’s always a few surprises around the bend. Like beautiful badlands. Like pristine golf courses parading over the plains. Like big-and-burly bison that don’t like people trespassing on their road.

Speaking of roads, North Dakota has more than enough of them to make for a great road trip. The Peace Garden State is also home to a smattering of sensational golf courses that are nicely dispersed in all quadrants.

Not surprisingly, given the fact that this is one of the least-populated states in America (only three states have fewer people) and just one percent of the state is woodland or forest, the golf tends to fall into the “inland links” genre.

For me, a prairie boy who grew up straight north of North Dakota in the Canadian province of Manitoba (yes, there is another country up there, and I guarantee you the winters are no more hospitable), North Dakota’s spectacular skies, vast spaces and rural ways are a comforting thing. Simply put, I like the state. And, perhaps more importantly, I like the golf.

Two simple reasons are because it’s affordable (nearly every course in the state is under $100) and it’s accessible (there are only four private clubs in the state and they all allow some non-member play). But, perhaps the most important reason is because the golf consistently hovers in the better-than-you-think zone and, at times, reaches the “outstanding” mark.

For example, Hawktree in Bismarck, which was first on the docket on my recent trip, is a thrilling Jim Engh concoction that’s routed through the heaving, water-carved landforms along Burnt Creek. Incorporating numerous perched tees, creek crossings, unique black-sand bunkers and a wonderful assortment of holes slotted through the naturally formed coulees, Hawktree has been lauded a “modern masterpiece.” It’s a lofty accolade, for sure, but, undeniably, this is an ideal site for golf holes and Engh’s effort certainly warrants “must play” status.

Interestingly, Engh, who was born in North Dakota, is the author of two other notable designs in the state. The Minot Country Club, which does allow some unaccompanied guest play during non-peak hours, has a similar look and feel to Hawktree. It showcases Engh’s bold bunkering and contouring, wide playing corridors and wonderful green complexes. And, for the record, Minot CC is decidedly easier than Hawktree.

Also, the tiny town of Killdeer (about an hour and a half northwest of Bismarck) is home to a fabulous, under-the-radar 9-holer that Engh designed in 2004. In fact, with its pretty prairie setting and massive scale, the Medicine Hole Golf Club epitomizes what golf in North Dakota is all about. I’d say pay your $32 and golf your brains out until the cows (or buffalo) come home.

In terms of an idyllic North Dakota setting, The Links of North Dakota is tough to top. Routed on ragged and rolling plains above Lake Sakakawea, the Links of North Dakota is an outstanding inland links that could be the poster child for how good this genre of the game can be. While the non-stop lake views are certainly a highlight, it’s the tousled terrain, the naturally channelled holes and the exceptional routing and shaping that really stands out here. For many inland courses utilizing the term “The Links” in the title is clearly unjust. But here, 20 minutes east of Williston on a relatively remote swath of wind-blasted prairie, it works like a charm. Thanks to an upgraded irrigation system (the work is nearly complete), this course is on the verge of putting a few tough years in the rearview mirror. Make sure you put it on your itinerary.

Although when it comes to golf course names, Bully Pulpit in the small western outpost of Medora, where I played my final round on my Dakota drive, takes the cake. The term was coined by U.S. President Theodore Roosevelt, who used the expression to describe a platform to influence or advocate for an agenda.

After playing Bully Pulpit, I’d advocate this: play it. It’s a one-of-a-kind course designed by acclaimed architect Dr. Michael Hurzdan with exciting holes that cruise near the banks of the Little Missouri River. However, be prepared for some in-your-face “bully” holes as well. The finishing run, a spectacular bolt through the badlands, features some wild and wicked challenges that aren’t for the faint of heart. The 14th, an ultra-narrow par-4 that rips through a ravine, and 15th, a devilish par-3 with a tiny perched green ringed by sand and satanic slopes, are the two obvious examples.

The town of Medora, however, will likely ease any purgatorial situations you may have endured on the course. A family-friendly resort town (don’t worry, there’s also a rustic saloon or two), this badlands oasis is also home to the legendary and long-running Medora Musical, which takes place every evening (in summer) in the Burning Hills Amphitheater. The outdoor show celebrates the American wild west and Roosevelt’s historic connection to the area. The 26th president of the United States bought a nearby ranch and retreated to the area often. Simply put, he fell in love with North Dakota.

I’d wager when you drive through Theodore Roosevelt National Park (the only national park in the U.S. that’s named after a president) you’ll fall in love with it too. The badlands are stunning.

To close out my North Dakota swing-fest I figured I’d drive down the spectacular 14-mile road through the park’s North Unit (about an hour north of Medora) to view the badlands and, perhaps, a bison or two. I overachieved.

And when I encountered that unruly herd snorting and stomping toward me, I immediately locked my doors (it’s hard to pick a lock with a hoof), opened my window a crack, grabbed my camera and photographed the wildlife spectacle. I escaped unscathed and banked a very cool memory. North Dakota, I’d say, is all about that.

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Andrew Penner is a freelance writer and photographer based in Calgary, Alberta. You can follow him on Instagram at @andrewpennerphotography.