The sprawling clubhouse at Haesley Nine Bridges, which will host next week's Bridges Cup.
Courtesy Photo
Golf is not a game that many people like to rush. But it’s played at different clips in different places. And in South Korea, where the Bridges Cup, an elite amateur event, is taking place next week, customs favor a leisurely pace.
This applies even before a round begins. Because most courses are situated far from city centers, outings tend to be all-day affairs. Golfers give themselves a lot of leeway, arriving early to change clothes in the locker room, linger in the clubhouse and limber up. Trunk-slamming in South Korea is not really a thing. Few players wind up sprinting to the first tee, breathless. Nor does the average round break land-speed records. At least five hours for 18 holes is to be expected. And that’s not including another relaxed ritual: the customary interlude between 9s.
Unlike in the U.S., where most breaks at the turn barely drag on long enough to grab a bite and beer on the go, every round in South Korea includes a prolonged stop after the front side, where golfers sit for a snack and a drink. These breathers, which typically last upwards of 20 to 30 minutes, are not considered optional. They’re also not something you want to miss.
“For starters, golf courses in South Korea have some of the most spectacular clubhouses and dining facilities in the world, so the surroundings alone are pretty much always striking,” says Tom Brown, a GOLF Magazine course-rater who has played golf in more than 35 countries. “But there’s also the fact that golf can be a great way to experience other cultures. That’s certainly true of South Korea. When you spend a day on the course there, you really get a sense of South Korean warmth and hospitality.”
What you eat and drink is often memorable, too. Menus vary, depending on the club and the time of year. Some courses lay claim to signature dishes. At the height of summer, on a humid day, the featured mid-round snack might be cold buckwheat noodles, or syrup-doused shave ice, piled high on a platter and served family-style, over ice cream and sweet red beans. It could also be fried chicken, crisped in rice-flour better, or a South Korean staple such as bulgogi (grilled marinated beef) or bi bim bop, a rice bowl with meat and veggies that you mix when it arrives. And always, there are beverages, including beer and rice wine, which help lubricate the conversation. At most tables, the chatter is lively. Camaraderie abounds. The service, meanwhile, is brisk and efficient. Most courses treat these respites as a point of pride.
Though the stops last longer than a trip to the turn stand at a State-side course, they aren’t endless degustations. Food and drink are scarfed down quickly, and before you know it, it’s off to the 10th tee. Just hope you’re hungry some three hours later, after a shower and change of clothes, when custom calls for you to gather with your playing partners once again, usually for a more elaborate meal.
A golf, food and travel writer, Josh Sens has been a GOLF Magazine contributor since 2004 and now contributes across all of GOLF’s platforms. His work has been anthologized in The Best American Sportswriting. He is also the co-author, with Sammy Hagar, of Are We Having Any Fun Yet: the Cooking and Partying Handbook.