The secret to making perfect Bolognese, according to a golf-club chef

When it comes to quintessential dishes with longstanding histories — especially those with incomplete accounts of what constitutes the original, authentic version — you could talk to 10 people and get 10 different assertions of what is right. It’s likely those 10 people will even more emphatically tell you what makes certain interpretations wrong.

And thus, that brings us to ragu alla Bolognese.

Does the hearty, Italian meat sauce include tomatoes? What about cream? To add or exclude one or both of those ingredients will gain you favor with some and scorn from others. So, we’re steering clear of that altogether. We’re not going to make any declarations about the “best” or “right” way to make a Bolognese sauce. Instead, we’re simply going to share a version that’s served at the Kiawah Island Golf Resort’s Atlantic Room restaurant, since it’s a dish that my server there recently told me “will never come off the menu” for fear of the retribution that the restaurant would endure from regulars who love the dish. It’s that good.

To narrow in on what goes into this praise-worthy sauce, we sat down with its creator, Executive Chef John Ondo, who not only shared his recipe (below) but also some tips to ensure your attempt at home is delizioso.

For starters, seek out meat that is ground on a chili plate — the largest plate that can be used on a commercial meat grinder. (Butchers should be able to accommodate this request.)

“The size of the meat is important for the texture of the dish,” says the chef. “Too fine of a grind and your sauce will be too smooth. If cut by hand, like a stew, the meat won’t break down and it will make the sauce chewy.”

(If you’re stuck having to choose regular ground meat or hand-cut, always go with the ground option.)

Don’t make the mistake of assuming a delectable Italian meat sauce only uses ground beef, either. Chef Ondo relies on a combination of beef, pork, and veal, all in equal measures. “They balance each other out,” he says, “and add richness.”

Food

It’s also vitally important as to when you add your mirepoix (a mixture of diced onions, carrots, and celery). Add it too early in the process, as some recipes suggest, and, according to Ondo, you’ll end up with “mush.” But overcompensating for that risk produces an equally undesirable outcome. “No one wants al dente carrots in their ragu,” he says.

The most important ingredient for a sauce like this, however, is patience. For example, gradually adding the stock, letting it fully reduce and cook off before adding more, is crucial for developing layers of flavor. You also can’t rush the process of browning the meat.

“This sauce needs time,” the chef says. “It’s a dish that takes a good while to make.”

But like so many things in life, good things will come to those who can wait. That’s especially true for this ragu alla Bolognese, which holds a special place in Chef Ondo’s heart — and his stomach. “It is my absolute favorite sauce to make,” he says. “And to eat.”

The Atlantic Room’s Bolognese

Courtesy of Executive Chef John Ondo
(Servings: 4 to 6)

Ingredients:

1 lb. ground veal
1 lb. ground beef
1 lb. ground pork
8 oz. pancetta, diced
1 cup red wine
2 quarts chicken or beef stock, divided
2.5 cups onion, diced
1.25 cups celery, diced
1.25 cups carrots, diced
2 cups tomato paste
1 tbsp. chopped garlic
1 tbsp. dried thyme

Preparation:

In a Dutch oven or large pot over medium-high heat, render the pancetta until crispy. Then strain and reserve the pancetta.

Return the pot to the stove and gradually add the ground meat, letting each portion brown before adding more.

When all ground meat is incorporated, return the pancetta to the pot, then add dried thyme and garlic.

Once the meat is browned and the juices have been released, reduce until dry.

Add the red wine and reduce until dry.

Add 2 and 2/3 cups of stock and reduce until dry. Then repeat with another 2 and 2/3 cups of stock.

Add the diced vegetables, tomato paste, and remaining 2 and 2/3 cups of stock.

Carefully bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and cook for one hour.

Serve over wide pasta noodles (tagliatelle or pappardelle) or a larger, tube-shaped pasta, such as rigatoni, and top with grated hard Italian cheese such as Grana Padano or Parmigiano Reggiano.