Welcome to Clubhouse Eats, where we celebrate the game’s most delectable food and drink. Hope you brought your appetite.
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As the final weeks of summer loom, most of us are trying to find ways to hold onto the warmth and the carefree attitude that the season seems to foster. There’s no easier way to celebrate the summer than with quintessential warm-weather fare, and few things scream “sun-splashed summer days” better than fish tacos.
To learn how restaurant-quality fish tacos can be prepared at home, we sought out the advice of Erik Lobner, the executive chef at Hokuli’a, a 1,260-acre residential community set along the Kona Coast on the island of Hawaii. There, Chef Lobner prepares blackened fish tacos that are served “Baja style;” and as we learned, the dish is easier to replicate at home than you might think.
So what is Baja style, you ask? According to Lobner, it’s the combination of flavors and components that originated in Baja, Mexico — corn tortillas, crispy cabbage, pico de gallo, and a flavorful cream sauce. “The key to doing Baja right is having the right amount of spice and citrus to brighten up and flavor the dish,” he says. “This is where the salsa and sauce come in. Adding lime or local citrus elevates the dish and brings it balance, and the spices and seasonings you use will add flavor and contrast to your plate.”
We’ve included Chef Lobner’s recipes for his pico de gallo, chipotle creme sauce, and blackening spice mixture below. As for the cooking method, he prefers blackening over the more prevalent deep-frying technique for two key reasons. “Blackening simply adds as much flavor to the fish when cooking,” he says, though he explains that it also helps to keep the protein moist. “Battering and frying the fish just takes moisture away.”
At Hokuli’a, Chef Lobner often reaches for Mahi Mahi (a common “market catch” at the resort) or Kampachi — two species that are fatty and rich in oil. “I try to avoid fish that are firm or lean,” he says, pointing to ahi tuna, swordfish, and Walu as three types of fish that are common in the waters surrounding the island. “They more easily dry up or get too firm when cooked.”
After coating the fish in his blackening spice blend, Lobner likes to sear the protein in a saute pan over medium-high heat until the fish reaches an internal temperature of 145-degrees Fahrenheit. Aside from making sure you don’t overcook the protein, the most important step in the process for home cooks is to be judicious with the spice. “Balance is key,” Chef Lobner says, “so be conservative with your seasoning and salt. You can always add more if it needs it, but when you put too much in to start, it can be hard to fix.”
In fact, in Lobner’s estimation, that less-is-more mantra is what makes for delicious fish tacos, period. “Very little is needed,” he says, “when you let the simplicity of your food shine through with great ingredients.”
Blackening Spice Mix
Ingredients:
1 tbsp. garlic powder (you can add ½ tbsp. for stronger garlic flavor)
1 tbsp. smoked paprika
1.5 tsp. ground cumin
1.5 tsp. salt (fine)
1 tsp. chili powder
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. ground coriander
1 tsp. onion powder
Preparation:
In a small bowl, combine all ingredients and stir until evenly distributed.
Transfer to an air-tight container and store in a cool, dry place.
Pico de Gallo
Ingredients:
The keys to making exceptional guacamole, according to a Mexican golf-club chef
500g ripe tomatoes (Kamuela preferred), minced and drained
200g yellow onion, minced
60g fresh lime juice
30g cilantro, roughly chopped
5g kosher salt
4g dried red chili flakes (a pinch)
Preparation:
In a medium bowl, mix together the onion, lime juice, cilantro, salt, and chili flakes and let marinate.
Put the minced tomatoes in a fine-mesh colander and allow to drain for 5 to 10 minutes.
Once drained, add the tomatoes to the marinating onion mixture and mix well.
Cover and store in the refrigerator.
Chipotle Creme Sauce
Ingredients:
250g mayonnaise
250g sour cream
45g chipotle in adobe sauce
35g fresh lime juice
Preparation:
In a blender, combine chipotle and lime juice and blend until smooth.
In a medium bowl, combine mayonnaise and sour cream.
Once mayo and sour cream are thoroughly combined, add the chipotle-and-lime puree and mix well.
Cover and store in the refrigerator.
