The post Which mini driver should you actually buy? | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.

The post Which mini driver should you actually buy? | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.

Mini drivers have grown in popularity over the past couple of years. TaylorMade kicked off the mini driver segment, and players on tour putting it in the bag sparked consumer growth as well. In 2026, we’ve got several mini driver options to choose from, and in my opinion, there’s a unique aspect to each of them that makes them a better or worse tool for certain players. Here are my highlights for the current mini driver options on the market.

Identify your ideal outcome

The most important part about buying a mini driver is knowing why you’re buying it. Are you replacing your driver? (Which I absolutely do not suggest.) Are you building a secondary tee option with a different shape? There are tons of different needs for a mini driver, and I think that the segment growing with more options has been really fun to tinker with and build out different options for different reasons. It’s also exposed what some are good or bad at, and why one may be better than the other. I personally think the most important two aspects of a mini driver are the distance you need it to go, and whether you need to be able to hit it off the deck. So you have a clear perspective on my end, I can’t hit a 3-wood for the life of me. It’s a constant struggle in my game, and with my 5-wood being about a 245 yard club for me, I don’t really need the 3-wood anyhow. So a mini driver is a perfect secondary tee option for me, and I build them very specifically to sit between the 5-wood and the driver. So here it goes; here’s how I see each offering on the market.

*Disclaimer: I do not have a PXG Secret Weapon, so it is not included in this breakdown. Callaway also unveiled their new Quantum Mini in the bag of Justin Rose this week at the Players, so there’s an update to be had soon!

1.) TaylorMade R7 Quad Mini Driver — The driver replacement … kind of

TaylorMade is definitely still the category leader for the mini driver segment. They started the craze a while back, and although the concept wasn’t incredibly popular for a number of years, it’s definitely picked up steam and TaylorMade has stayed ahead of the curve in design. I also love that TaylorMade uses their mini driver segment to bring back some retro themes. We’ve had the Original 300, BRNR, BRNR Copper and now the R7 Quad. Hopefully this means that we’ll see an R1 or R11 mini soon.

Drivers

The TaylorMade is easily the most “driver-like” mini driver available. I have been able to build 11.5-degree TaylorMade minis that go nearly as far as my driver. I am a firm believer that players should NOT replace their driver with a mini driver, which I have previously written about, but if you’re that player, this would be my suggestion. The R7 Quad is the lowest spin woods offering that TaylorMade makes, but with the quad weighting, you can create whatever you need out of this head. Throw the weight in the back for a higher launching secondary tee option or throw it in the front for a low spin bomber to replace your iffy driver. It’s a very, very easy head to hit with lots of forgiveness, and being so easy to launch, it ends up working out as a fantastic primary tee option for lots of players.

All of that being said, the R7 was never really the head that suited me the best, until they dropped the 15.5 degree head, which now lives in my bag. The issue that I’ve had with the mini driver segment is that they go too far. My driver is the rock of my game. If I am not hitting my driver well, things are really bad. I’ve gotten my driver into a really comfortable spot, and as I started testing mini drivers, I couldn’t see the benefits of having a secondary tee club that was 10 yards short of my driver, or sometimes going the same distance. We’ll talk about the Elyte Mini ending up in my bad because of this, but it’s been replaced with the 15.5 degree R7 Quad because of how I could build the club. By setting the loft sleeve down to lower, I am playing the head in 14 degrees of loft but with a square face at address rather than the traditionally closed face that mini drivers provide. Combined with building it a little bit shorter, I was able to build what I think is the perfect mini driver for my game.

Jake’s choice for driver replacement

TaylorMade R7 Quad Custom Mini Driver

PERFORMANCE FOR THE MODERN PLAYER Inspired by one of the most iconic models in TaylorMade history, the R7 Quad Mini Driver pays homage to what’s come before, while creating its own modern identity in the same breath. It’s that very modern design that incorporates proven TaylorMade technologies to give golfers versatility and playability. R7 QUAD WEIGHTING SYSTEM The new quad weighting system features four movable weights (13g x2, 4g x2) that provide the ultimate in spin management and shot shape control. Forward CG creates a penetrating flight best suited for maximizing distance whereas rear CG helps prioritize control and ease of use from the deck. Shot shape can also be fine-tuned helping create the most optimal flight. Additional weights can be purchased for a wider range of adjustability. INFINITY CARBON CROWN A new satin Infinity Carbon Crown has been added to the R7 Quad Mini Driver chassis creating a stunning look while saving weight for better mass optimization. The cosmetic package is clean, elegant, and confidence-inspiring.

$479.99 from Fairway Jockey

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2.) Callaway Elyte Mini — The spinny one

The Callaway Elyte Mini was in my bag for all of 2025 and it had a very solid place that was uninterrupted by just about everything except for a small flirtation with the Titleist GT1 Tour. The reason being, the Elyte Mini spun a bit more than the other mini drivers on the market and that’s exactly what I needed. The extra spin allowed me to play the head at its standard sleeve setting, which is a slightly closed face at 13.5 degrees. Because my normal shot shape, particularly with the mini driver segment, is a draw, adding spin helped me keep the ball more in control and got rid of the big left miss that I would experience with something like the BRNR or the R7. I still built the Elyte Mini shorter than retail, at about the length of a 5-wood, but it was the easiest one to get in the bag as far as distance was concerned.

To me, the Elyte, before the introduction of the R7 15.5 degree, was the best true mini driver. It was really fast, but with a slightly higher spin profile that proved to be more useful for high speed players looking for a secondary tee option that didn’t run into their driver. I was also able to hit the Elyte off the deck when I REALLY needed to. It was never a shot that I was looking to hit purposely, but as long as I went into the swing with some trust and commitment, the Elyte Mini proved to work out. Who doesn’t love a mini driver DOD from 265 yards? I think the Elyte Mini is still my recommendation for higher swing speed players prioritizing a secondary tee option that’s a bit shorter, but that want to be able to work the ball off the deck. It was a bit easier for me to do with the Elyte Mini than the R7 15.5 degree. If the R7 is a 80/20 tee to deck ratio, the Elyte Mini is a 70/30.

Jake’s choice for added spin and distance control

Callaway Elyte Custom Mini Driver

$469.99 $419.99 from Fairway Jockey

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3.) Cobra King Tec MD — Is this the one that does it all?

To be clear, the Cobra King Tec MD is the mini that I have the least amount of time on, but it’s the one that has me the most curious. It only comes in 13.5 degrees, but the one thing it has that nobody else has is the FF33 sleeve. One of the larger problems with mini drivers is the starting face angle. TaylorMade actually had a really cool video on their Instagram last year where Tommy Fleetwood was working with tour rep Adrian on his new R7. A big part of that conversation was based around face angle and making sure that it set up properly behind the ball, which allowed him to feel like he could hit the shot type that he was looking to achieve. With the FF33 sleeve, you can make the driver flat, which doesn’t necessarily bring the face back to square, but it certainly helps with start lines. I am the player who WANTS the mini to draw and only draw, so the closed face isn’t the end of the world, but sometimes it means starting the ball too far left. Flatting out on the FF33 adapter is very helpful for this. And since you can also adjust loft separate of lie, you can turn the head down just a little bit if it’s really bugging you behind the ball.

As far as off the deck performance is concerned, I would say the Cobra is a bit easier than the R7 but not as easy as the Elyte Mini. So using our relationship ratio from above, I’d say the Cobra is 75/25 tee to off the deck. Again, that’s coming from somebody who can’t really hit a 3-wood well off the deck, so take that with a grain of salt. I want to do a bit more experimenting with the Cobra. It’s got easily adjustable weights, the FF33 sleeve, a fantastic look behind the ball, and a great sound and feel off the face. This really could be the one that fits the most amount of golfers. Especially if you’re a more confident 3-wood player than someone like myself. Which brings us to our final option.

Jake’s choice for all-around tee shot versatility

Cobra KING TEC Custom Mini Driver

$479.00 from Fairway Jockey

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4.) Titleist’s GT280 — More of a MAX wood, but maybe that’s the best way to do it?

The Titleist GT280 is the dark sheep of the mini driver family. With it’s 280cc shape, it’s smaller than its competitors, but I think that’s the biggest advantage. Everything listed above was between 70/30 and 80/20 for off the tee to off the deck performance. The Titleist GT280 is the closest thing to 50/50 that I’ve tested. Just to be safe, I’ll officially list it at 55/45. It’s the one that I have the most confidence hitting off the deck, for sure, and I’d say that sentiment runs through most others that I know who have tested as well.

The GT280 still works very well off the tee. It’s a dependable option, that can still be built just like the others I’ve built. The distance issue off the tee isn’t a problem, unless you want it to be. It can still very easily be built as a bomber just like the others. What’s funny, though, for my own bag is that until I have 100 percent faith in my ability to hit this off the deck, I still can’t put it in the bag. That’s a big me problem, and a very niche excuse to not play it. Because I don’t worry about off the deck performance, I just take the highest score I can find in secondary tee shot ability. But if you’re a player looking for a super easy to hit tee option that’s also usable as a confident off the deck option, the GT280 really is the best option for you. Players who also have the opposite problem as me — those are confident with a fairway wood off the deck, but hate the shallow profile off the tee — will also feel very at home with the GT280.

Find what works for you, and be honest about it

The biggest thing with the mini driver segment is being realistic about what you need. There are plenty of great options on the market to suit different types of players, and while they can all be made to achieve different goals, they really do have a standout pros and cons list. As I stated in the beginning, just know what you want. If you’re like me and just can’t hit a 3-wood anyhow, you should probably invest in a mini driver so you have a reliable second tee option. The mini driver is also a very versatile build tool. Weight can be added easily so don’t be afraid to play it short to make sure it’s giving you the exact performance that you’re asking from it. I build mine at about a 5-wood length, there’s no restrictions here.

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The post 3 things to know before you buy a new driver shaft | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.

The post 3 things to know before you buy a new driver shaft | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.

Finding a new driver shaft is no simple feat. What driver shaft should you actually buy? You should go get fit by an authorized fitting center, but I’d be the world’s largest hypocrite if I didn’t also encourage the occasional buy and try experience.

The good news is there are tons of resources to gather good information on golf shafts, including directly from an OEM like Mitsubishi Golf. You can find profile information, tech sheets, spec sheets and explanations of their profiles. They also have a fantastic virtual fitting tool available to give you a head start on your research.

As you explore their site and other sites for information, here are three things I want you to keep in mind.

1. Shaft profile is king

Shaft profile is everything. It’s the single most important specification or characteristic of a golf shaft to make sure that you get right. Shaft profile is how the golf shaft is going to bend during the golf swing. Every golfer has a unique swing with it’s own unique shape. Think of all the times you’ve been watching golf on TV and seen the club path tracers for the pros. Those tracers are all very unique, even at the highest level of the game. And taking those “swing shapes” and matching them to the correct profile is going to be the difference in hitting the center of the face or not.

Shaft profile is measured and displayed as a relationship between the parts of the golf shaft. There are three parts of the golf shaft. Under the grip is the handle section; sometimes also referred to as the butt section of the golf shaft. On the other end of the shaft going into the club head we have the tip section. The middle… well the middle is just called the mid-section. Not a whole lot of fun there.

Typically what I like to tell players is that they should try to match firmness with aggressiveness in the golf swing. If you really yank down from the top in transition, something with a stronger handle may benefit you. Players who may have a wider transition with a little bit more length and a little bit more drop before speed is activated, like a Collin Morikawa, might like something with a bit of a softer handle.

Gear

If you’ve noticed that the head is chasing in front of your hands during the swing, you may be playing too soft of a handle.

The handle helps to create lag in the swing, which helps to generate speed in the first half of the swing. A softer handle can help generate that speed for you, so for players a little bit wider or more tempo’d will appreciate the assist.

Players who are already fast from the top may feel like that softer handle can’t keep up. It’s a case of deciding whether you provide the speed, or the handle section does.

Here’s a fun video from the Epson Tour Championship last year with Isabella Fierro showing her how to fully unlock the profile of her Mitsubishi Diamana BB 63 Stiff.

The tip section has a similar story. Players who are a bit stronger and may lag the shaft more are going to appreciate a stronger tip section. Because they create lag through impact with a later release, the tip section doesn’t need assistance staying behind the hands. For players with an early release, matching up with a softer tip profile can help use the shaft to create the lag and the “kick” at impact that’s going to give them some additional club head speed and ball speed. Again, it’s making sure to match up the swing to the part.

2. Shaft flex… isn’t everything

Shaft flex is a very misunderstood shaft characteristic. It’s often stated that shaft flex is 100% connected to speed, but that’s not true. In multiple tests of my own, shaft profile has always won as the priority spec. Having the right shaft profile in the wrong flex is going to end up better than having the right flex in the wrong profile.

A lot of this is due to a misunderstanding of what shaft flex is really labeling. The biggest thing to understand is that shaft flex labels are in relation to that family of golf shafts in a silo. For example, Mitsubishi has two flagship shaft families: the Diamana Generation 6 lineup and the Tensei 1k Pro lineup. A stiff flex part from the Tensei family is not going to perfectly match up the feel and stiffness of a part from the Diamana family. They are designed with different players in mind. The only thing that’s going to be consistent is that a stiff shaft is always going to be stiffer than the same family marked with regular flex, and softer than that family marked with an x-stiff flex.

This is something that can be hard for golfers to get over. There’s such an ego or bias to the words shaft flex, that many players don’t realize what’s actually in their hands. All that matters is that once you’ve chosen the proper shaft profile for your game, which is how the shaft is going to bend, you test shaft flex to make sure that they shaft is behaving when you need it during the golf swing.

3. Build specs

This is the last piece of the puzzle, and the piece that deserves to be tested with a fitter. It’s the last part of the equation for the perfect new driver build. How long does your shaft need to be and what weight should it be? There’s a bit more to dive into here on both accounts, which I will cover in more depth in the future, but for now I urge you to go test different lengths and weights with a fitter to see how it affects your ability to consistently hit the center of the face. Shaft droop, torque, lie angle and swingweight are all going to be affected by these decisions, and we can only cut once so let’s make sure we get it right!

In general, a longer or lighter shaft is going to be easier to launch and generate speed. I like to say that longer and lighter give players the opportunity to generate more speed. It’s never going to be a black and white yes or no for speed, but sometimes it’s really fun to swing the light, long and soft parts. It could create a perfect storm for speed! (I may have gone down a rabbit hole testing this.)

That’s it for now! I’ll be adding plenty more to the site in the coming weeks to break down the shaft selection process in more detail, walk you through all of the vocabulary you need to know, teach you how to get properly fit for shafts and so much more. Make sure to follow us on Instagram and YouTube for the latest content updates!

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The post PGA Tour pros do this to their wedges every week, should you? | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.

The post PGA Tour pros do this to their wedges every week, should you? | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.

I recently took a trip to PING headquarters in Phoenix and had an incredible experience having Adam Harding, from the Ping tour truck, custom-grind me a wedge.

When we visited Ping previously for Fully Fit, I was having trouble finding the right lob wedge, which was disappointing because I liked how they felt off the face and they were spinning more than anything else that I had tried the rest of the week. Thankfully, we were on another trip out west, and I got to work with Adam, whom I had been texting for weeks about my quest to dial in the wedge.

I’ve already gotten comments from viewers and followers that this isn’t a “normal” thing, and it’s tough to compare the experience to what a consumer can get. That, however, is wrong, and I’m really happy to let you guys in on this little secret.

How did I know I needed a custom grind?

When we went out for Fully Fit at Ping, I really, really enjoyed the new S259 wedges. On full shots with the gap wedge and the sand wedge, I was impressed by the feel, and more importantly, the penetrating flight the wedges produced with more spin than I had seen from anything I tested. This was confirmed throughout the week-long trip.

The problem was that we couldn’t figure out the lob wedge. I typically play a lower-bounce lob wedge to prioritize the ability to open up the face without exposing the leading edge. This helps add effective bounce while allowing me to be creative.

Weirdly enough, the best option of the day at Fully Fit ended up being the W grind, but it was mostly because I could make the wedge work for more types of square-face shots. Leaning the shaft, keeping the hands back, or going toe down was easy and the wedge was very forgiving, but I had to abandon the option of opening the face on little shots around the green. With that wide of a sole and that much bounce, it just wasn’t something I was comfortable looking at or executing.

This is where the custom grind comes in.

A friend of mine used to work on all my golf clubs, and a couple of years ago, we discovered that a significant reduction in the heel of any lob wedge is good for my game. I love to swing the face way open, and knocking down the heel helps a lot with that.

I also like to add a bit of skid to the leading edge to ensure that I don’t create a knife that digs into the ground and never comes out. In 2024, I played a Mizuno T24 that was custom ground with leading-edge camber and heel relief, and for 2025, I did the same with a Cobra King, a fresh grind of which is the current front-runner for the bag.

There was just something about these Ping S259 wedges that I really liked, so I texted Adam about potentially making some changes to the H-Grind, which was really close in testing. It worked well around the greens, but it was too sharp on longer pitch shots or full shots. Digging really hard and not getting out of the turf properly is a common issue with the H-Grind, and I had the same problem.

Adam was confident that he could help. He texted me to say that he had explored some options for that exact problem whenever I was able to see him next. You can see the entire interaction in the YouTube video we created.

Figuring out what the custom grind needed to be

We started by hitting a couple of shots with the “contenders”. Adam wanted to use the S259 S-Grind as the base test because it’s PING’s “standard” grind. It’s something that works for lots of players and has a unique way of showing what a player may need from a wedge. It’s not quite the grind for me.

Sure enough, I shanked one off the hosel. Definitely not the one we were going to move forward with. Next, we went back to test the H-Grind. We were pretty sure this one was going to work for me around the green, so it was more of a fun test just to show off a little bit. The H-Grind has about 90% of what I am looking for on the shorter shots around the green, but I could still feel the heel making contact with the turf before the ball.

Lastly, Adam, for his own research, wanted me to hit the newly designed E-Grind.

The E-Grind takes the classic Ping Eye-style grind and modernizes it for today’s game. It still has the Eye grind-style material cutout in the sole, which gives it two leading edges and two trailing edges in a way.

The idea is to keep the front of the wedge lower bounce for ease of use around the greens, but high enough in bounce to hit the fuller shots. Unfortunately for me, the shape of the leading edge was still just a bit too sharp for how steep I get on pitch and full shots. Even trying to open it around the greens, I struggled to get past that “second cut” on the sole. We moved back to the H-Grind to hit a few more shots and decided that was going to be our starting point.

From there, Adam went to work.

He started by grabbing a fresh S259 H-Grind from the truck drawer (with no weight port installed) and taking it to the grinding belt. Using a coarser, more aggressive belt, he began removing material.

Since Adam had done a similar grind for himself, it didn’t take him long to get there. He took a bunch of material off the heel, and what used to be a bit of a knuckle in that area became nice and flat. He then smoothed the rest of the wedge with a finer, less-aggressive belt to help blend before tackling the leading edge.

To make it less sharp without adding too much additional bounce, he had to be careful about the angle he chose to grind this new “skid”. By blunting the front edge a bit more and creating a skid, I can stay aggressively down in attack angle without worrying about the wedge getting stuck in the ground on pitch shots or more full shots.

Again with this, he started with a coarse belt to get the shape down and take away material, and then finished it up with a finer belt for blending it back into the wedge. Since this was a Hydropearl 2.0 Chrome finish, it’s easy to spot the work done, but Adam did a fantastic job blending the grind, even with the finish removed.

1/4

2/4

3/4

4/4

Making sure we didn’t screw it up

After Adam ground up the new wedge, he built it up to my specs with a Project X 6.5 Wedge shaft and a GolfPride Tour Velvet Cord grip.

The cool part about building up a PING wedge from scratch is the access to the CTP weights (pictured above). The heads start without a weight in the port, so they can build the wedge without having to worry about tip weights or swing weight at all, really, and then the appropriate CTP weight can be placed in the build at the very end to ensure proper swing weight.

This is especially cool when it means that there’s zero trouble in building a unique length and, in my case, building it to the same length as a gap wedge.

Once the wedge was dry, we headed back to the PING Proving Grounds chipping green to hit the same shots we had started with.

I could feel the difference immediately.

It was so easy to open up the wedge and get aggressive on my attack angle without ever fearing that I was going to stick the wedge into the ground. We quickly hit some fantastic shots and then headed over to the range to hit some full shots. This is where we were going to find out if the entire experiment was worth it.

The good news: it was a breeze. The wedge didn’t get stuck in the ground a single time. It got into the turf fast, which helps me make confident ball-first contact, but came out quickly enough that spin values stayed consistent, impact location and strike consistency improved. The flight window I was seeing was nearly perfect. One shot after another, Adam’s leading-edge grind proved its worth. I was a very happy golfer with a new tool.

Tour experiences are great… but how can the regular golfer get this?

One of the common comments I’ve received since this content went live is that it’s not fair to show an experience the average consumer can’t get.

But that’s not true.

There are lots of private bay fitters who do custom wedge fittings and grinds, as well as plenty of online resources for places to send your wedge with notes of how you want it ground. Remember, some things will require more investment. If you really think that you have no options in the wedge market, investing a few more bucks to get one ground the way you need it is absolutely worth it. It is to me, anyway. But that’s not even the best part.

PING s259 Custom Wedge

$199.00 from Fairway Jockey

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The cooler news is that this type of experience is available through Ping Custom. An authorized Ping dealer can work with Ping through what’s called the Ping WRX program. It’s sort of an “if you know, you know” program, but it’s one of the cool ways that Ping separates itself.

Offerings like it are part of the reason that Ping doesn’t sell directly to the customer. They want to make sure the gear has been properly tested or, preferably, fitted. Working with authorized dealers on things like Ping WRX, it allows customers and their fitters to get specific about what they are looking for from Ping and bring this sort of experience to the regular consumer.

For more information on that program, visit your local authorized PING dealer. I’d probably stay away from the big box stores with this one, though, and find a local fitter or a local golf shop near you to help order properly.

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The post Should you play game-improvement irons? | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.

The post Should you play game-improvement irons? | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.

Game-improvement (GI) irons, like the new for 2026 Cobra King irons, seem to get a really bad reputation, which is sad because I think they’re actually my favorite category of irons to test and talk about.

The problem with GI-style irons is that they’re big, and that hurts people’s egos. Nobody wants their buddy making fun of them on the first tee when they pull out a large and in charge 7-iron. The truth is, though, there are probably more golfers who could benefit from playing this style of iron than any other. Game-improvement irons are designed to be the most helpful and to make scoring easier. They aren’t just for slower players or beginners. They’re for anybody who just needs a little assistance. The category has also grown over the past decade, and there are actually micro-categories within the GI bucket to really make sure that players are getting the level of help they need.

The biggest problem that I see, though? We don’t talk about GI irons properly.

Opportunity versus guaranteed results

What I mean when I say we don’t talk about them properly is that it’s often incorrectly stated — even by me — what they actually do. Nothing in club fitting is black and white. There aren’t magical guaranteed fixes for any club in the bag, or any category of club that they fall into.

While GI irons are typically larger designs with more forgiveness (M.O.I.), wider, higher-bounce soles, and a lower center of gravity (C.G.) position, that doesn’t mean that they are going to be super straight high-launching options for every player. Instead, the correct way to think is that they are easier to launch higher or to get away with mishits. The way they are designed gives them the chance to do those things better than other designs, but ultimately, performance is dictated by impact. Different players are going to get the club to the ball in different ways, and not everyone will have the same experience.

I tested some offerings from Cobra using my Foresight QuadMax, and this data demonstrates what I mean.

You can see in the data that the launch numbers don’t shift much between my Cobra 3DP MB irons and the new Cobra King GI style irons I tested. The big difference, though, is in spin and speed. Even with the Cobra King GI iron being 6.5º stronger than the 3DP MB, the launch remains about the same. The good news, though, is that’s the real point, and the one I want to drive home. There’s a miscommunication in what “higher launching” actually means.

Game-improvement irons and stronger lofts

This is one of my least favorite topics to discuss. The internet gets bent out of shape over it, and it’s the number one most mistalked about topic in the entire game of golf: loft jacking.

Loft jacking is the process of strengthening the lofts of an iron set. Usually, that carries a negative connotation that OEMs like Cobra are just trying to fake extra distance by giving your 7-iron the loft of your 5-iron. But that’s not the only reason they do it, which brings us back to launch. When designing a game-improvement-style iron, it’s important to give it as low a center of gravity as possible. This encourages launch, no matter who is swinging the golf club. The problem is that modern design and C.G. placement have started to launch the ball too high, to the point where other launch characteristics are negatively affected.

So how do they combat this? Strengthen the lofts. This brings the iron package down to a more usable performance window, giving the golfer who needs help the best chance of success with these offerings. So to demonstrate, I hit some 5-irons with my 3DP MB as well, which has a more similar loft package to the Cobra King GI 7-iron.

You’ll notice now that the King 7-iron is launching higher than the 3DP MB 5-iron at the same loft. The C.G. package of the King iron is built to launch higher. You also have to keep in mind that speed creates launch. I am not the player designed to be hitting the King iron, so my data between these two examples will be closer than that of the player who actually does need to play an iron like this. At lower speeds, the difference in launch is going to get wider between the two.

Cobra 3DP MB Custom Irons

The 3DP MB iron combines the looks and feel of a traditional forged muscle back with the forgiveness of a cavity back iron. The most forgiving blade on the market, the MB has captivated Tour players by checking all the boxes and exceeding expectations with its exceptional stability and feel. FORGIVING MUSCLE BACK BLADE SHAPE A slightly revised shape from the KING MB inspired by feedback from PGA Tour player Max Homa, the MB features a thinned topline and enhanced offset. The internal 3D printed lattice and heel, toe and hosel tungsten increases MOI for stability, and positions the CG perfectly centered and lower than the KING MB to promote higher launch. EXTREME FORGIVENESS MEETS SOFT FEEL The 3D printed internal lattice structure not only optimizes weight savings, but also provides the stiffness and strength to support the face and fine-tune the acoustics of each iron to produce the most appealing impact sound and feel. TUNGSTEN WEIGHTING The discretionary weight savings from the 3D printed lattice allowed for up to 55g of tungsten to be positioned low in the heel, toe and hosel resulting in the perfect blend of a compact blade shape with a low CG and high MOI that mirrors a game improvement iron.

$329.99 from Fairway Jockey

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What about spin?

Take a look at the differences in spin between the King GI 7-iron, my 3DP MB 7-iron and my 3DP MB 5 iron.

Overall, the King 7-iron is definitely acting more like the 3DP MB 5-iron, and in some ways, as we’ve discussed, it sort of should. But you’ll notice that compared to the 3DP MB 7-iron, the King is in a much lower spin window, by a little over 1,000 rpms on the best swings. Again, I see this as a great thing. The player who needs all this help will be over the moon that their 7-iron is performing this well. My peak heights were getting up to 135 feet. While that is probably too high for me, the benefits for a player who struggles to get the ball up in the air are priceless.

For beginners who want to be encouraged to come back and play, or players who just want to be able to hit the ball as far as they used to, something like the Cobra King iron is perfect.

Instead of comparing the club apples to apples with a head that has the same number on it, it’s better to discuss who it’s for and what it does. The best example I can give is for the player slowing down. What’s the benefit for a player who plays cavity-back irons of moving to a game-improvement iron? It’s an easier answer. Now they can play the same number club they are used to. The same CB 7-iron they used to play might be going 15-20 yards shorter and probably not getting hit high enough to produce any sort of spin or stopping power. Throw a game-improvement club in that player’s hands, and all of a sudden, they are back to their “normal” 7-iron distance, and the ball is shooting up nice and high to land softly enough on the green and help deliver a more playable golf experience on course.

It doesn’t matter that the irons have a faster face, less loft or a wider sole. All that matters is that the golfer can feel confident again and get around the golf course with ease while shooting the lowest possible score, regardless of skill, speed, or age.

Check your ego at the door

Club Fitting

Clubs like these Cobra King irons are very, very helpful designs for the right player. The problem with the internet is that arguments get lost in comparing clubs that should never be compared with players who shouldn’t be hitting them in the first place.

For someone like me, the stronger lofts, hotter face and wider sole are going to turn these irons into rocket launchers. But they aren’t built for me. They’re built for players who want to get distance back. Players who feel like they are losing out on enjoyment during their buddies match every week because they just don’t have the juice they used to. Beginners are still great options for an iron like this. It will give them the opportunity to learn the game in a more forgiving way and create a less aggressive barrier to entry into the sport.

The golf world is full of plenty of complaints about stronger lofts and hotter faces on irons, mostly from players who don’t need these types of irons. But my question to you is: Have you ever heard of a player who actually needs these irons but complains that they go too far, too high and too straight? I didn’t think so.

If you’d like to get fit for the right irons to match your game, visit your local True Spec and get dialed in!

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The post Should more golfers play blades? Here’s what you should know | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.

The post Should more golfers play blades? Here’s what you should know | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.

There are quite a few different schools of thought on how to select the right irons for your game.

Most of which come from players who refuse to get fit, because yes, that’s always the correct answer. However, there are lots of golfers who spend lots of time online looking through articles, forums, news feeds, and social media to find their answers.

One big question? Should more golfers play blades? If you had asked most folks at the end of the 2025 PGA Tour season, the answer probably would have been an astounding no.

“Rory just switched to cavity backs.”

“More and more Titleist staffers are going into the T-series every week.”

“Combo sets are the way to go.”

That’s all fine and good, but so far in 2026… quite a few big names are leading the way with blades in the bag, including World No. 1 Scottie Scheffler, a switch BACK to blades for World No. 2 Rory McIlroy, and two-time winner in 2026 Chris Gotterup. The one common theme for these guys? They’re all PGA Tour professionals.

The Ridiculous Argument

The most common and most ridiculous argument that I hear for the average golfer to hit blades is, “You’ll learn how to hit the ball better if you start using blades right away.”

This is absurd. Golf is hard. Really hard.

Gear

Why are we encouraging players to start off on the most unforgiving foot possible? Even modern blades like the new 2026 Wilson Staff Model MB or a TaylorMade P7TW, which are more forgiving than their 10-year-old counterparts, are still difficult to hit consistently. These clubs are MEANT to give feedback to the golfer. These clubs are MEANT to be perfect out of the middle, and harsh outside of it. They are true elite players’ tools. Not meant for the hands of beginners.

The worst fear I have of this statement is that it takes the fun out of learning the game. I’ve seen more new golfers quit over frustration than anything else in the game. So in the opinion of this author, telling MOST players to pick up a set of blades is the absolute worst advice you could possibly give them.

Rory Stopped Playing Blades

Irons

A couple of weeks ago, a pretty big story emerged as Rory McIlroy elected to start playing a set of TaylorMade P7CB cavity back irons over his RORS PROTO set of blades.

This was the turning point that the forgiveness crowd had been begging for. Surely if RORY was going to switch to something more forgiving, there’s no reason why any normal golfer should be playing blades.

Well, that didn’t last long. They never actually made it to the PGA Tour, even. Ahead of his debut this week at Pebble Beach, he has switched back into his RORS PROTOS. But, I don’t think he’s done with the experiment yet. I have a feeling that this is going to be the catalyst for a new set of RORS PROTOS. Something we probably still won’t be able to get our normal hands on, but amazing nonetheless. He spoke in his press conference this week about the switch back, and gave a very unique answer.

While diving into his answer requires another article completely, I don’t get the sense from his tone answering the question that he’s giving up on the more forgiving experiment.

Personally, I’m looking forward to seeing what they develop and come up with. Because a cavity-back style iron that doesn’t have as much right bias in it with a little bit of reduced offset… could be quite something.

What about the average consumer?

Today, I ran over to a local simulator joint to test out the theory for myself. I am a +0.3 handicap golfer at the moment, and over the last few years, I have had blades in and out of the bag in one way or another. Some in the bottom end of the set with a combo or flow of cavity backs in the top, and some as full sets. Even now, I have begun the year choosing to play the new Cobra 3DP MB irons. Which are a different animal.

They certainly don’t play like an MB.

The reason I bring this up is not to brag in any way about my own game, but to say that I am probably in the small bucket of people who should even consider playing a blade. For me, at this level in my game, it really comes down to consistency of strike and turf interaction.

Blades or MB models typically have a very small sweet spot. The club heads themselves are much smaller, and getting the center of the face back to the ball isn’t as easy or as generous as something like a cavity-back or larger-style clubhead.

The soles tend to be very thin, so there isn’t much room for error in club delivery. When you have a thinner sole, it tends to go through the turf really efficiently, but it’s also very sensitive to attack angle. Come in too steep, and you’ll get stuck in the ground like a knife. Come in too shallow and your hands will know what the thin sting feels like off the bottom of the club face.

All this is to say that there are so many reasons for even skilled or scratch level NOT to play blade style irons, why would a 10 handicap feel like playing them is the right move? Because some guy in pit vipers on the internet told you to? Bad reason.

Testing the theory

I jumped into a local simulator bay this morning to hit some shots with the new Wilson Staff Model Irons lineup. 2026 brings us a new muscle back blade, a cavity back offering, and a brand new hollow-body in the Staff Model XB. I made sure to snag screenshots of the data, so let’s take a look. First, (out of 10 shots with each club) a look at the best three shots hit with each.

There is nothing really surprising about this data set from hitting a 7-iron of each model. The blade is the slowest and the hollow-body has the lowest spin with the Staff Model CB living right in the middle of the two. Where it starts to develop into more of a story is in the true 10-shot averages seen here.

Here we start to see a bit more separation. As we include more and more shots, the irons start to show their true colors. The worst shots from the Staff Model MB are going to offset the averages to be lower performing than the other two models. The XB and it’s hollow-body design start to really shine as the averages get closer to what the numbers were from the best three shots. And as we look at the worst three shots from each group, the full picture really develops.

This is where the MB style of iron can really fall apart. Again, I like to think that I am a fairly decent ball striker. I know how to get the club to the ball effectively. But every time I go into a bay and start swinging some blades, I am reminded that I need a little bit more forgiveness in my game. Losing six-to-seven miles an hour of ball speed just can’t happen. That can be a full club of distance on the course!

Why would I subject myself to even thinking that that would be an option if I am trying to get better at golf. Even just the small step up to the Staff Model CB proved to be a fantastic move. The standard deviation in the data between shots was wonderful to see, and it’s still a really good looking package that doesn’t damage the ego at all.

Wilson 2026 Staff Model CB Custom Irons

$200.00 from Fairway Jockey

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ALSO AVAILABLE AT: PGA Tour Superstore, Wilson

All this for what?

As I stated before, the implication that the average or even recreationally good golfer should be playing blades is absurd to me. Does this mean that I think blades have no purpose in the game? Absolutely not. I have actually seen a fair bit of golfers who “shouldn’t” play blades get fit into them. There’s something to be said for a thin sharp sole and a small form factor. There are players of all skill levels who are going to find success with their delivery using this style of golf club. I don’t want to bucket the blade shape to be for a good or a bad player, just that it needs to be for the right player.

I certainly won’t say that anybody starting out should be anywhere near a blade, unless you’re showing them how far they need to go to truly understand how to hit the golf ball. At that point you’re really just making an aggressive statement, but I’ll allow it.

If you get fit for blades, the I believe in you and I wish the best for your game. Remind me not to bet you for any money, because I’ve made that mistake before. If you haven’t gotten fit for a set of blades and you really want to see what they can or can’t do for your game, make sure you go book a fitting with your local True Spec Golf fitter. They’ll set you straight.

Want to find the best irons for your bag in 2026? Find a club-fitting location near you at True Spec Golf.

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The post The unsuspecting beneficiary of the 64-degree wedge | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.

The post The unsuspecting beneficiary of the 64-degree wedge | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.

Today, Titleist released a brand-new Vokey WedgeWorks 64º T grind wedge in a Black Vapor finish for $275.

But its release comes with a question: Who’s this actually designed for? Vokey states that the new offering is “a high-lofted lob wedge designed to help golfers navigate firm conditions, elevated greens and short-sided lies.” But I think there’s actually another unsuspecting customer for the high lofted lobber.

The Unsuspecting Beneficiary

I have several times thrown a 64-degree wedge in the bag of lesser-skilled friends of mine who all share a similar trait in their short game: a lack of confidence. That lack of confidence leads to bladed shots over the green as they try to force too much speed into the ball, or coming up short of their target after a major decel in the swing.

Instruction

But when I give them a 64-degree wedge, the same pattern always occurs. For the first handful of shots, everything goes straight up and straight down and about half as far as they think it will. I usually suggest that these guys not have a lob wedge at all, so they are comparing the 64-degree to a sand wedge or a gap wedge from their game-improvement iron set, which leads them to swing with less speed than they should.

The traditional thought is to stop lesser-skilled golfers from getting the ball up in the air. Many legends of the game have said that keeping the ball close to the ground leads to more success.

And while I think that’s generally true, the 64-degree wedge could be the solution for that. After a few more shots, they’ve realized that they can throw the lob wedge behind the ball, and it’s just going to pop up. By introducing a bit more speed, they can essentially hit a single-shot type from just about anywhere without worry, knowing that the launch will help the ball stop with gravity. Their confidence goes up, speed becomes more consistent and their short game begins to improve dramatically.

Short Game

You can see here in the data I collected this morning on Foresight that the 64-degree does exactly what it’s meant to do. It launches a little bit higher, it spins a little more because of that loft and it stops a bit quicker because of those factors and gravity. It’s an ease-of-use thing. Can I also hit a spinny 8-yard flop shot that stops where it lands? Yeah. But that’s fun we’ll talk about another time.

To get fit for the perfect set of wedges, find a local True Spec near you!

The post The unsuspecting beneficiary of the 64-degree wedge | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.

The post How to fill the top end of your golf bag | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.

The post How to fill the top end of your golf bag | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.

With so many new options hitting the market the top end of the bag can get muddled really quick. There’s already so many reason to have more head covers in the bag than ever before with players opting out of the long irons in their set, but once you’ve decided what that last iron is how do you fill the rest of the bag up to the driver?

Utility irons? Hybrids? Fairway woods? Utility woods? Not to mention having to ask yourself if you’re the proper candidate for a mini driver. Callaway just launched three new options for the top end of your bag, so let’s dive in to these choices in this installment of Bag Builders. 

Where do we start? 

The first question we need to answer is where the iron set stops. The more skilled of a player you are the more likely you are to have more irons in the bag. There’s still pros on Tour rocking 3-irons in their set. That’s wonderful for them, but the reality for most amateur golfers is that you’re probably stopping the set at the 4- or 5-iron. Some folks have even started stopping the set at the 6-iron. This is actually something I experimented with this summer, but couldn’t find the right option to replace some of the shots that I’d normally hit so the 5-iron got to stick around. An important note here is that I am not considering utility irons in this question. Only the irons in your set. So if you’re a player who moves to a utility-style iron after your set, that would be considered the start of our long game coverage. 

Based on what your longest iron in the bag is, we then need to figure out how many slots are left to fill. This will require you to take another look at your bag and depending on how many wedges you play, the answer is going to vary. Typically if we stop our iron set at the 5 and we play four wedges, we’re going to need three more clubs between the 5-iron and the driver. So now it’s time to do some math. I’ll use my own bag as an example: 

What do I need for my game?

My 5-iron carries about 200 yards in the air. My driver carries to about 275 yards. That means that I need three clubs to cover 75 yards worth of distance as efficiently as possible. For me, the ideal setup is going to be two clubs with a great amount of versatility that can split the work between roughly 210 – 240 yards. So for my bag I’m looking for about a 215-yard club and a 230-yard club. And then I would fill in the gap between that longest club and my driver with something that gives me about 250-260 off the tee and off the deck. Likely a fairway wood. 

So we’ve nailed down what I need. A 215 club, a 230 club, and a 250 club. Now we have to figure out what clubs I need to get to those distances. Playing with flight in the top end of the bag is very important. Knowing that you have versatility allows you to cover more gapping between longer options, and being able to stretch out a long option to increase roll-out and total distance or add spin and take some distance off is the difference between a lethal long game player and a mediocre one. That being said, the faster speeds you’re able to produce the more likely you are to desire more creativity. 

Options for slower players

For slower players, the long game area of the bag may still be used for par-4 approach shots, and the emphasis there is going to be an easy to hit club with a tight dispersion that prioritizes landing conditions and consistency over creativity. Typically I would tell any player that they need to be confident in hitting a green from 185 yards. So if wherever you stop your iron set doesn’t provide that coverage, you need to think of your long game options as an extension of the iron set. This may mean going into hybrids which are great tools at performing like an iron would in that slot, while producing more ball speed and launch to make it easier on the player. I would not suggest that slower players look at utility irons. There’s a reason your iron set stops where it stops. There’s so many good options on the market to help assist you after that point, so don’t be afraid to try some options. 

I think one of the best options for slower players is the new Callaway Apex Ti Fusion Super Hybrid. Its just so easy to hit. I’ve given two to my dad and it’s completely changed his game. He has a lot of trust in his fairway woods, but moving into the irons can be more challenging as he continues to improve his game. The Super Hybrid has been a great in between for him. The 16º replaces his 5/6 iron and the 22º replaces his 7/8 iron. So he can keep the 8 iron in the bag and continue to improve his strike without feeling like he’s losing shots because of it. He went from hovering around shooting 100 to consistently shooting in the mid 90s just because of the addition of the two Super Hybrids. He’s never worried about the ball getting up in the air, and the Titanium face of the latest iteration produces ball speed regardless of how it’s struck. 

Options for faster players

For faster players who may stop their iron set closer to 200-215 yards, there’s a bit more freedom of choice for how to choose the first option after the iron set. The utility iron category has become quite popular in recent years, and these options are great for players still looking for shot shaping and flight control. For players who want to work the ball high, low, and both ways, utility irons are going to be the right choice. Great for players that are tipping out courses and find themselves on 220+ yard par-3s on a consistent basis. It’s nice to have the control and the spin of a utility iron when trying to be as precise from 220 yards as they are from 170 yards. 

The new Callaway Apex UT has really impressed me. I am not a fan of utility irons. I don’t normally play them. Most of the time they’re overly clunky, they don’t provide tons of confidence behind the ball, and they feel like junk. The new UT’s design is clean, more compact than others, and provides LOTS of ball speed while feeling pretty good considering the category it lives in. Having the face and the sole of the club designed as separate pieces is a really cool way for them to add some more technology to the face, and the new Utility Ai Face iteration has already proven itself in my numbers. Toe hits aren’t as crazy low spin as others and the ball stays in the air. You’ll still lose some speed and some distance, but you won’t be completely boned. To put it bluntly. I’ve got a 22º option built up with a Fujikura Ventus HB Red and it’s an easy addition to my bag in that 4-iron slot. This takes care of that 215 yard club I talked about needing. 

Callaway 2025 Apex Custom Utility Iron

Built for better players who demand a precise, high-ball-speed alternative off the tee, the APEX UT delivers control and speed in a sleek, utility iron profile. FLEXCORE TECHNOLOGY Our most advanced, multi-material construction ever in a utility iron, this flexible core design promotes more face flexure and faster ball speeds across the face. FLEXCORE Technology unlocks the face from the sole, allowing for more consistent distance even on off-center hits, helping you attack every shot with confidence. UTILITY Ai FACE DESIGN Engineered specifically for utility irons, this Ai Face design focuses on superior distance control and spin consistency. Provides advanced precision and responsiveness for shot-shaping and trajectory control. FORGED HOLLOW-BODY CONSTRUCTION A multi-piece forged hollow body delivers solid impact feel and sound. Delivers a responsive, solid feel with enhanced vibration dampening, providing the feedback elite players require without compromising the forgiveness expected from a utility iron.

$319.99 from Fairway Jockey

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The Apex UW – It has a cult following for a reason

The new Apex UW is our final new product to talk about, and this one’s the most interesting. It’s a lot of things, depending on the player’s hands that its in. For me, it’s an ultra consistent high draw secondary tee option that goes about 220 yards (using the 23º offering) with a good amount of spin. I can also float in a cut with this to about 205 yards, or flight it down and let it run. It’s proven to be more versatile of the tee for me than I think it may be advertised to do so. 

Callaway 2025 Apex Custom Utility Wood

The Apex UW is designed for serious, avid golfers seeking the perfect blend of a fairway wood’s power and a hybrid’s versatility. Engineered with Tour feedback and loaded with performance technologies, it delivers a higher, more neutral ball flight with the control all players demand.  TUNGSTEN SPEED WAVE A dynamic, 41g+ tungsten wave structure positions mass low and forward, enhancing ball speed and launch—particularly on low-face strikes where players tend to lose distance. STEP SOLE DESIGN A redesigned sole with a stepped geometry reduces turf interaction, helping to maintain swing speed through impact and promoting more consistent contact across different lies. TRIAXIAL CARBON CROWN The lightweight carbon construction allows for strategic weight redistribution, creating a more forgiving clubhead while refining launch and spin for greater shot-making control. TOUR-INSPIRED SHAPING Designed with input from the world’s best, the compact, refined shape and neutral face angle inspire confidence at address and deliver workability from tee to turf.

$369.99 from Fairway Jockey

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Off the deck I’ll hit it a little bit higher on the face with less spin and it gets closer to carrying about 230 yards. It’s also the easiest club I have to hit out of crappy lies in the rough. Matted down grass, patchy dirt marks, tree roots in the way, the UW doesn’t care. That step sole design really does work and I think that the priority most people should set if they are thinking about putting this in the bag is that its primarily an off-the-deck club. Which for me has been fantastic. This is the 230-yard club I talked about needing. I actually originally thought I was going to have to choose between the UT and the UW for the bag, but turns out… I can put both in! I’ve got my 23º UW built up with a Mitsubishi Diamana RB and it’s quite the tool. 

I think the UW would also be a great option for semi-decent ball strikers who don’t love hitting fairway woods off the deck. A UW is much easier to mentally stand over and get a little bit steeper on than the longer profile of the fairway wood. For some players this alone may be the difference in playing a UW or a fairway wood. It can be particularly useful when you also want something that’s a little bit more workable than a traditional fairway wood, while still having a better ability to hit from subpar lies than a traditional hybrid. I can shape and flight my UW in ways that would be extremely difficult with the fairway wood equivalent. 

So we’ve got my 215 club and my 230 club, but what about that 250-260 club? 

For me, it’s about the course I am playing. If I am going to need that distance off the tee, I am 100% going to grab a mini driver. Probably the Callaway Elyte Mini because it’s the one that spins the most for me, and I like having a bit more spin off the Mini. It allows me to ensure that it won’t run out from me. Lots of times where I regularly play 250 carry turns into a max rollout of 265 before you get into trouble. Spin helps me control that confidence. 

Callaway Elyte Custom Mini Driver

$469.99 $419.99 from Fairway Jockey

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If I am playing a course where I think I’ll need to hit a longer approach or have a shot at a par-5 in two, I’ll reach for a fairway wood offering. Usually something in the 16.5º realm works well for me. It helps me personally to see a little bit of loft on my fairway wood. Just makes it mentally easier to get through impact and stay down on the ball just a touch longer. 

Where does this all leave us?

It may seem like it requires a lot of work to fill the top end of the bag. And that’s because it is. Gapping this are of the bag is just as important as gapping your wedge set. Knowing what tools you have, how far they go, and the different ways that they can get there is extremely important to higher success on the course. It doesn’t really matter what speed or ability you have, the long game are of the bag is often overlooked. People know that they don’t require as much precision in the top end, so they excuse a lack of performance. In reality, dialing in your long game can have a large and immediate effect on the score card. Particularly if you realize that you need to add more long game options, like my dad. 

One of the best ways to figure all this out is to get a fitting. You can find a True Spec location near you and go hit it all. Tell your fitter that you’re coming in to try and dial in the top end of the bag and they’ll get you squared away with the best options for your game. It’s certainly cheaper than buying a ton of clubs and hoping they work out. But I’d be a hypocrite if I told you it wasn’t fun to do. 

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Earlier this year I attended LIV Chicago for what was my first GOLF.com assignment. My job mostly was to follow the team around, get introduced to people and make some content as needed. For one of those pieces, I spoke to one of my new colleagues, Maddi MacClurg, about Henrik Stenson’s legendary Callaway Diablo Octane 3-wood, which he has used for much of his career.

This led Maddi and I into a longer discussion about the idea of what clubs can stay in your bag forever, and what clubs you’d be wise to replace whether you like it or not. (By the way, in Stenson’s case, while he has stayed loyal to the Diablo Octane, he has swapped out heads. And from what he told Maddi, he’s still on eBay every now and then looking for new ones.) 

My feelings are that outside of putters, which I think everyone agrees have an endless shelf life, the only other clubs that you can use in perpetuity are lob wedges and fairway woods. Everything else is hard to make an argument that you shouldn’t replace every few years in pursuit of performance. That’s because some clubs are built to fill a role and others are built to deliver a performance boost.

For this installment of Bag Builders, let’s dive into the idea of selecting clubs for purpose vs. performance. 

Why some clubs have a defined role

The fairway wood and the lob wedge are the two most “do a job” clubs in the bag. A good lob wedge can be a safety blanket for any player, and a reliable fairway wood can make a huge difference on the tee box in high-stress situations. Both clubs need to inspire confidence; they need to feel automatic. There can’t be any feeling of pressure or work. They just have to do the job they are meant to do, and they need to do them effortlessly. That’s why we see players in lob wedges for years, or with a single fairway wood for an entire career.  

Once you’ve found the perfect shape, bounce, loft and grind combination in a lob wedge, it feels perfect in your hands. At any level of golf, feeling supremely confident over delicate short games shots is invaluable. Look at the PGA Tour, where players may change their sand wedge and gap wedge options, but they’re more likely to hold onto their lob wedge for a couple of years, only replacing it with a duplicate when the grooves wear out. If grooves didn’t wear down, I would venture to say that some players would never switch their lobbers.

That said, the wedge market does change a lot. It seems like every week we’re seeing Aaron Dill come out with a new tour grind for Vokey. Every time an OEM releases a new wedge lineup, they are releasing a new grind option. The amount of stock options that a player has available to them in today’s game is nearly immeasurable. Side note: My two favorites this year have been the Cobra T Grind and the Mizuno X Grind. 

In Jake’s Bag

Cobra KING Custom Wedge

Crafted from 8620 steel using MIM (Metal Injection Molding), KING Wedges are one of the softest feelings in market. Choose from four new grinds (DROP, WIDELOW, VERSATILE, TOUR) for enhanced greenside creativity and optimized CG with Flight Window Technology (F.W.T) for tour inspired launch. The redesigned Cobra Speed Notch, 67% larger than before, ensures better glide and speed on open-face shots. MIM (METAL INJECTION MOLDING) Experience precision with MIM technology, offering 50% tighter tolerances than traditional casted wedges. Each head is heat-treated to nearly 1400°C, ensuring a tighter grain structure for a softer feel and enhanced longevity, resisting groove degradation for lasting performance. COBRA SPEED NOTCH Discover the newly redesigned Cobra Speed Notch, featuring softer, blended shaping that complements our new grinds. Now 67% larger, it ensures smooth glide through the ground while maintaining speed and delivering high spinning shots.

$189.00 from Fairway Jockey

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An underrated offering

Mizuno Pro T-1 Custom Wedge

The Mizuno Pro T-1 and T-3 wedges have officially joined the esteemed Mizuno Pro family. As the best feeling and performing wedges Mizuno has ever made, they are now worthy of bearing the prestigious name. Engineered for precision and versatility, the T-1 and T-3 offer unmatched feel and control for golfers of all levels. With advanced forging techniques and meticulously crafted designs, these wedges deliver spin consistency, shot versatility, and a touch of Mizuno’s signature elegance. ICONIC MIZUNO PRO FEEL Forged using Mizuno’s Grain Flow Forged HD process at their exclusive Hiroshima facility, the T-1 wedges combine 1025 Pure Select Mild Carbon Steel with a Copper Underlay for an unparalleled feel. Every shot resonates with precision and feedback that’s unmistakably Mizuno. CRAFTSMAN REFINED SHAPING The T-1 features a compact Teardrop Shape with a straighter leading edge, creating a visually appealing profile from any angle. Its design is crafted for precision, confidence, and seamless turf interaction. SIX DISTINCT SOLE PROFILES The T-1 offers S, M, P, C, V, and X sole profiles, ensuring there’s a perfect option for every golfer’s unique wedge-playing style and course conditions. From full shots to delicate greenside play, these grind options provide unmatched versatility. The new M sole profile (Mid Bounce) takes the place of the T24 D-Grind, while the P sole profile (Plus Bounce) builds on a similar D profile, offering additional bounce. SPIN CONSISTENCY IN ANY CONDITION Featuring Quad Cut + Grooves and Hydroflow Micro Grooves, the T-1 delivers exceptional spin control in both dry and wet conditions. The tighter groove pattern enhances spin rates, while Hydroflow technology channels moisture away for consistent performance on every shot. Stronger lofted clubs in the T-1 range utilize grooves optimized for spin consistency, while the higher lofted focus on maximizing spin around the greens.

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A good fairway wood is so hard to find

The problem with fairway woods, specifically a 3-wood, is they’re not easy to hit. That last club before you get to your driver can be a pain point for many golfers. They don’t launch easily, can be unforgiving and I know many golfers who are more timid hitting their fairway wood than any other club in their bags, particularly when hitting them off the deck. I am one of these players. I hate playing fairway woods. Until 45 days ago, I didn’t carry a fairway wood for about two years because I couldn’t swing one with any confidence. It was actually my conversation with Maddi at LIV Chicago that sparked my desire to try and find one — and thankfully I’ve actually found a couple. One of them even made it into my bag during my most important weekend of golf of the year. 

The thing to remember about 3-woods is that it’s rare for their roles to change. Once I find a 3-wood that goes 250 yards off the deck and 265 off the tee, I’m done. I’ll use that exact wood at that exact distance until I’m playing the forward tees. Whatever ends up filling that slot for me over the next five months is going to be the golden child in my bag. I just want one to work with the effort I’m willing to put in. While I may be more confident in finding that club than I ever have been, that doesn’t mean I’m not fighting an uphill battle. So similar to Stenson and his nearly two decades with the same fairway wood head, I’m not going to go through all the trouble to put one in the gamer set without committing to it long-term. 

What’s right for you? 

At the end of the day, your bag is made up of 14 tools that all need to do a job. In my mind, three of those tools can be permanent fixtures, but the other 11 should be checked on every so often. Heck, even the three staples need to be monitored on occasion. We’ve all got a back-up roster of putters (and likely other clubs, too), and you shouldn’t be afraid to challenge your starters. You might be shocked at what you think is a role player, and what’s actually holding you back.

The best way to test if your clubs’ roles have changed is by getting fit. Find a True Spec club-fitting location near you.

The post Why trusting these 3 golf clubs is essential to your game | Bag Builders appeared first on Golf.